There is no dining experience quite like that of chef David Shannon’s L’Opossum. The Richmond restaurant is fantastically over-the-top, from the gilded tabletops to Shannon’s personal collection of art that fills every corner. The French-inspired menu with dishes like Les Excargots à la Ham Biscuit and The Swank Bank, with butter-poached lobster in a “louche yet obscenely rich truffled mornay cream,” as the restaurant describes it, hint at a bit of the Wonka-esque genius of Shannon who nightly presides over the pass, ensuring that each plate is prepared to his exacting standards. From the surroundings to the service, L’Opossum reminds guests that being playful is serious business.