Style magazine recently published a review of L’Opossum restaurant:
Character seems to work for Oregon Hill, and the kitschy-baroque décor includes — but isn’t limited to — deep-red walls lined with “Star Wars”-themed decorative plates and a gallery of thrift-store art, shaggy latch-hook pillows, bejeweled pendant lighting and a clown bathroom you must experience for yourself. There’s tension between all this stuff, and while it seems that it shouldn’t work together, it kind of does.
Part of the menu works this mishmash theme, and you can tell that chef David Shannon had a grand old time coming up with his eclectic spread, plates and spirits. You’ll need help figuring out what some of the long-winded items are, such as the Chapel Creek oysters rock in a green fairy fog of absinthe mist ($10). This isn’t a ding. Let it be known that I love all wordplay, and it was a blast to read and decipher the menu — with assistance from the staff. It’s a wonderful bunch, pros who swoop in greeting, welcoming, directing and guiding.
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There’s a lot to love about L’Opossom: It’s creative, it’s fun, and it’s a welcome respite from newer, design-oriented restaurants that often feel too precious. It has a strong, bold base from which to work. And if the French-style adage of less is more were applied here and there, it could achieve that magical balance of tastiness and consistency. It could be a contender as the other Oregon Hill destination.
